Saturday, December 27, 2008

The Russians are comming...

So I lied everyone, you can visit me in Antarctica... If you want to pay a little over 30 grand for a cruise ship tour of Antarctica, with the Russians. This Russian ship known as the Kaptian KHLEBNIKOV, has two helicopters on it. The helicopters bring in visitors/tourists for the day. Even though I've only been here for like 2 months, I got slightly perturbed when a tourist cut me in line at the store. But I remembered that I once was a tourist on this great continent...though my trip was way better than theirs. For one reason, I was with my grandfather Phil, and for the second reason National Geographic helped run it. But anyway I'm off on a rant. So here is a shot of the tourists. They were dropping a lot of cash on stuff at the store...so soon the store will be out of T-shirts and other random trinkets. Rumor has it that the store has some great T-Shirts that they have yet to put out...just because these tourists will buy anything.




I went on another hike, this time around Observation Hill Loop. It is roughly a 3 mile hike that wraps around Observation Hill. It is a very well defined trail and I think it is one of my favorites around the base. I got attacked almost by a skua. It was funny, and I wish I had it on tape.
This skua decided to dive bomb me, even though I didn't have any food. All I did was point at him and I guess he thought I was threatening him. So he took a swoop down at me and a couple passes. I told you they were crazy birds! The hike was nice though. What was really cool was that we found a ton of bones in one part of hike. I guess that Skua lives there or at least eats there. The bones were littered all over the landscape, here is a photo of it. I am not sure the bones are penguin...and unfortunately I don't have any forensic biologist friends.

Typically there is more wildlife in McMurdo; but due to an iceberg that is off in the bay of McMurdo, most wildlife has been diverted for the last couple of years. In 2000, there used to be open water all the way to the edge of the base. And penguins used to walk downtown all the time. Now the penguins are mostly at the airfield these days. Now that iceberg sort of has ruined it. But the iceberg now has moved far enough they think that we will see a decent increase of the amount of wildlife this year. An icebreaker usually comes in the second week of January. When the icebreaker comes, it will open a path and allow the wildlife to come closer to McMurdo.

The best part of the hike, was that when I finished it. I was able to see the Russian Chopper land. It was really cool.They didn't land at our helicopter terminal, they landed on the sea ice. Hope you all had a great post holiday weekend! Take care.

Friday, December 26, 2008

Xmas in Antarctica

Hey everyone...we'll I know I'm posting this late, so Happy Boxing Day! Christmas here at the station was interesting. It took forever it seems to leave work now that we have to take the piston bully back to town. But after work, I went to church. I figure how many people could say that they went to a Christmas service in Antarctica. It was interesting to say the least. The Air force supplies the chaplains here, I guess it is part of their role here. We had a Mormon minister, because once again the Air Force classifies Mormons as being Protestants. But the service was standard for a protestant service. There were only 5 of us in the church, and all males too. So I think the songs we sang lack a certain "je ne se quoi"?. Shout out to my sistah! Hi Katie!

After church, I went to the gym and just got ready for Xmas dinner. So it was a very relaxing day. The dinner here was on par with what we had for Thanksgiving. I had King crab legs, duck, beef, shrimp and scallops, asparagus, and potatoes. The deserts once again were kick ass. Here is a skua that made its way into my meal. Yay, skua...oh so delicious.


After Dinner I hung out with the rest of my off duty fire crew and celebrated. Then I went on a hike and saw a couple Christmas seals. So yea, this Christmas was better than last years...no offense Action...and certainly no offense to Mr.Dave Sherwood. Though we did have fun in the Lynn last year. Anyway, enjoy your boxing day. Love you all, and Happy Holidays!

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Have a holly jolly Christmas...

Merry Christmas everyone! And Happy Holidays as well. Today is Christmas eve, and we'll things are going well down here. I am working at Station 2, so I will be missing the town Christmas Eve party, but I will be enjoying the Christmas Dinner on Christmas day. This picture is from the chapel here on station. I really like the stained glass. And since its Christmas I figure it would be appropriate to show this wicked awesome photo.

Yesterday before my monster hike, I volunteered to work in the kitchen. This time I did food prep, which is a lot more fun than cleaning pots and pans, which is what I did Thanksgiving for those of you who are tuning in late in this program. Myself and three other firefighters, well one dispatcher and 2 other firefighter, all went after work to the kitchen to help out. My friends Matt and Helen baked cookies, while myself and Jess prepped the food for Christmas dinner. My job was basically cutting asparagus, which wasn't too bad. After 2 hours or so of that, we all got to finish with decorating the gingerbread cookies. It is fun to interact with the kitchen staff. I think the Fire Department has a very solid relationship with the kitchen staff as a whole down here. At station 2 last week, myself and a couple guys wrote a poem to them on their whiteboard in the Kitchen.
But anyway, back to Christmas eve.
Today was an interesting day to get to Station 2. Due to the last couple of days of "Summer" weather (20-32 degrees) the transition to the ice has become very rocky, bumpy and full of monster pot holes. If you though New England pot holes sucked, these are wicked worse and on steroids. So until the roads get better I will be driving in a Piston Bully for the next couple of shifts out to the airfield. Its a two cab-ed unit, and drives incredibly slow on tracks. Took me an hour to get to work today, which is double what it should usually take. No worries, though, I got to see two adelie penguins walking around the area, looking very merry. It could have been that my Lt. was wearing his holiday uniform as well. So today I'm just hanging out and doing a very relaxing day at the airfield. We only have two flights today, and then some guy in a red suit is going to land and give out presents to everyone...see contrary to popular belief Santa comes here first...so in your face everyone! Anyway Ho Ho Ho...Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

XC Ski-ing in Antarctica


Hey guys! I've had a wicked busy day on Tuesday my time, Monday your time. Today was so intense and busy I'm breaking this post up and only covering half of what I did! The beginning is more XMAS related and of course, you know that I will have an entry dedicated to that. So around lunch time, I met up with 4 other guys from the firehouse. We decided to rent XC (Cross Country) skis and do one of the trails around here, actually the biggest trail around here. The trail is known as the Castle Rock trail, and it is 9.3 miles or so.
With this trail, one must go through all the safety checks and procedures before embarking on it. This trail has claimed several lives because it is prone to crevasses off and around the trail. Our group filed an "E-foot plan" and grabbed two radios from the firehouse and set our checkout and check in time. This was only my second time doing XC, so I was a bit rusty. Well actually, I was very rusty, but I did get the hang of it eventually. The trail starts off of the hut point loop and loops around from McMurdo to Castle Rock and then to Happy Camper area and then to Scott Base rd. The whole trail should take the average person in between 5-6 hours to complete. We had several people who were in our group that this was their first or only second time doing XC, so we were hoping to complete the whole trail in 7 hours.

Along the trail every 3 miles or so are "Apples". Unfortunately they are not the delicious and nutritious fruit we are a custom to. These are better, they are small shelters that are filled with supplies, so if one had to survive in bad weather they could. There have been several cases where a bad storm has rolled through mid-hike for people, so they just hunker down in the Apples until the storm passes. The Apple has several days worth of food, blankets, sleeping bags and of course, a stove and a phone. The Apple is useful to get out of the wind and the cold. Our group had a snack in one of them and we talked for a little bit while we warmed up. It was good to have a little break during our hike.







The next part of the trail was wicked steep. I don't think this photo does it justice, but you will have to take my word on it I suppose. If you haven't ever climbed a steep hill in XC ski's, you are very fortunate. It was a great workout because you can't have your ski's parallel to the hill or else you start to side down. Once we hit the top of the hill/the bottom of Castle Rock, we celebrated. I don't mean to brag or anything, but I am an eagle scout. And the Boy Scout motto is "Always be prepared", so of course I brought beer. We each had a celebratory beer and began our decent. I will try to get the photo up here. We had Tui, which is pretty decent New Zealand Beer. Since we don't have access to American beers, with the exception of Bass, I have grown a custom and really like New Zealand beer now.
The hill, on the way down, was very steep. I was taking my time when I took a spill and lost my ski. No joke, I literally lost my white ski. I don't mean to go off on a rant here, but honestly people. White Skis? Who makes these? Don't they realize that you may fall down and loose the ski, in the WHITE SNOW. God that is like flying a white plane in a snowy white continent...*Ahem* South African Airforce *Ahem* Anyway, back to my story. So I fell, and my binding came loose and my ski decided to travel down the hill, all the way down the hill. We believe it went over a mile away. I would normally just walk off the trail to retrieve my crazy runaway ski, but we were in a crevasse zone. Mostly a lot of the crevasses are hidden in this area. A couple are marked by black flags which basically alert you that there is a crevasse in the immediate vicinity and you are taking your life into your own hands if you stray off the trail. This is also the reason why there have been so many deaths on this trail. Some people in the early 90's decided to take a short cut back to town, and they didn't make it.
So, in the interest of my personal safety I decided that this harsh continent has claimed yet another ski from McMurdo's Gear Issue Dept. I walked the rest of the way, and did a little one leg ski-ing. It was funny to follow my trail because it would go "Heel kick, heel kick, heel kick, toe kick glide". That was what the rest of the hike was like for me. Fun Fun stuff, let me tell you.

The views were great on this hike, I really can't stress that enough. Once you go out of McMurdo the shear vastness of the entire area grabs you. I do miss colors, but the beauty of the white snow is breathe taking. My favorite part of the Castle Rock trail, besides the Castle Rock itself, was the Kiwi ski hill. I'm telling you if things continue on the downward spiral in the US, I'm moving to New Zealand. Those guys know how to have fun and get the job done. The Kiwi's installed their very own downhill ski area, complete with a rope tow. Americans can only go and downhill ski if they are invited by Kiwi personnel. I would love to downhill ski on the ski hill, it looked like a lot of fun. The Hike continued all the way to the Happy Camper area and then to Scott base Rd. Can't really say much about that portion because it was pretty standard.

I think that this was one of the best hikes ever down here. I got to do it with a good group of people, and we had a lot of fun goofing off with our skis. And this hike has brought me one step closer to doing all the trails that they offer here. Once I complete all the trails here I'm buying a T shirt that has a map of the entire area's trails...yea basically this all boils down to me wanting to have bragging rights with a T shirt, I'm selfish like that. And Hiking is wicked fun, with the right people. I think I might try to get back into that when I get back in MA.


We'll that's all I have to say now. Don't worry there will be a Christmas Post to follow shortly this week. Oh and to all my jewish readers out there, Happy Hanukkah.


Happy Hanukkah, from all the Penguins here at McMurdo

Sunday, December 21, 2008

LDB Balloon Launch


So as I mentioned a while ago, we have a Long Duration Balloon Facility here at McMurdo. Basically they launch large balloons so that they catch the upper atmosphere Polar Vortex. Please refer to the my entry of "Science Sunday" for the description of the Polar Vortex and the reason why the LDB are here on the ice with me. The Balloons grow to be very large, roughly the size of 4 747's, and it reaches a altitude of 100,o00 feet. It can be tracked via the internet, and as soon as I get that link I will post it here. The balloon experiment is run by NASA...so if you have any questions ask Katie Potere. She went to space camp for like 6 years...she basically works to NASA in my mind. So this is a shout out to her...what up Katie!
On a side note, Hey Lundquist remember when we had to fight the Medusa Squadron? Man that was extreme. Extreme to the MaxX!!! Shout out to Chris Lundquist...I think he understands the reference. Anyway, the launch that they have been trying to do for 3 days now, left early. The launch time was suppose to be at 1100 hours but for some reason when I went outside at 1000 hours it was already in the air. Here are some of the photos from the launch. The reason why most of the launches are postponed is because the wind around the airfield where they launch is too strong. The window for this experiment is only 2 weeks or so long, then the polar vortex closes and they can't launch their balloons to that altitude. It is really interesting to see all the science experiments down here. NASA is also testing some moon living structures down here too. I'll see if I can some photo's of that for you guys. This is a short post because, I hear you all have a ton of snow to shovel up there in the Northeast. So I hope that this entry was a nice little break in between shoveling. Anyway enjoy your weekend. Talk to you all later.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Pressure Ridges



Hey y'all. Here is the first official new camera post! So around Scott Base and McMurdo sound is an amazing phenomenon formed from the sea ice and the glacier ice around here. Basically the sea ice and the glacier push against each other and move these large chucks of sea ice and snow/ice up into the air, forming what the call "Pressure Ridges". This is because the glacier is constantly moving and the sea ice is in its way. They grow about a foot taller every month. Due to the fact that the sea ice moves, ice holes open up and penguins/seals often jump out and hang out by these ridges.
This is why Scott base is so much cooler than McMurdo. Scott base always has wildlife chillin' (literally) in front of them on the ridges. When I drive to work at the airfield I will often see 3-4 "land slugs" or seals just basking in the warm antarctic sun. The Kiwi's get to see that out their windows every morning, and all I get to see is volcanic dust and Observation Hill.
The pressure ridges are off limits to Americans usually, but open to the Kiwi's all the time. Damn you American rules and regulations.
So very rarely are there tours of the pressure ridges given to the Americans.
So I couldn't sign up for the tour, because I was working at Station 2...but there were a couple alternate spots on the sign up list...so to make a long story short, someone couldn't make it on the tour so I was allowed to go on the tour. So I got on the bus and headed to Scott Base. The drive was pretty short to the ridges, considering it is basically only at Scott Base like a 10 minute drive. Then we began our walk. We were a small group of 12 people total including our tour guide. I wouldn't really consider this a tour considering that our guide didn't do much. Pretty much he was only there to make sure we walked by the green flagged route. Can't trust those Americans to follow rules.

What was really cool was the little pool created here.





What a desolate place this is....











Artistic Shot of Scott Base.

Helicopter doing a Medi-vac to Willy Field

Friday, December 19, 2008

Airbus 319 Departing from Antarctica?

I saw this yesterday and KNEW I had to post it for you all. That is right, you are not dreaming this is the closest it gets to a commercial jet liner in Antarctica. This is the Airbus 319, AirCanada uses them a lot, I believe. My personal aviation expert hasn't given me much information on them ...AHEM AHEM. But, its a fairly small jet. It can hold 120 seats, and it is 111 ft. long. For all you nerds who love specs...here is a link to the website of Airbus: http://www.airbus.com/en/aircraftfamilies/a320/a319/specifications.html

So I know you all have the same question, "Phil, what the heck is that doing there?". We'll it is a contract jet from the Australian Government. Basically, they are going to be doing a couple missions here for us and to my understanding assisting with the massive pull out of personnel that happens at the end of the season. I'll upload some more photo's for you guys next time I do a stand-by for them.

The real reason why I was at the Pegasus airfield was that we were medevac-ing (Medi-vac?) someone off the ice. It was really interesting to load a pt onto a commercial airliner with the Airforce.

It was a wicked clear day. You could see McMurdo all the way from Pegasus. Anyway, this is a short entry. Enjoy your Thursday everyone!

Ps: I got the new camera, THANKS MOM for shipping it to me. So expect the photo's to go into high gear.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Snow Survial Course


Hey all, Sorry for not posting for the past week...but this post will make up for it. So, it is a requirement for all personnel who are working down here at McMurdo to go through a 2-day crash course in snow survival. As you can imagine, this is very serious because of the storms that sometimes roll through here. The course is referred to as "Snowcraft I" or "Happy-Camper", but I like to make it sound more hardcore...so Snow Survival School is how I think of it. Every Department usually tries to send new employees as soon as they can to this snow school, but the due to the busy schedule of the Fire Dept, I had to go rather late in the season. But, it did work out in my favor, instead of just one other firefighter in my group, I had five. Which was a lot more fun, and I will get into that later.
So in order to participate in this class, one must gear up in all issued ECW gear. I brought my extra gear as well as my issued bunny boots and big red jacket, always be prepared right? We started the morning of the class doing the ice breaker/get to know your group activity. Ice breakers are my personal least favorite thing to do, maybe because I had way to many at FPC. But shortly after our ice breakers, we got to go into some basic winter survival skills. Everyone, who leaves from the township of McMurdo is issued a "survival bag". The survival bag is built for two people, but can be altered. The basic contents of the bag are: 1 whisperlight international stove, 1 canister of fuel, 2 sleeping bags (0 degree or lower rated), 2 sleeping mats, 1 tent, 1 tarp, a couple days of food, a snow saw and a shovel. Of course there are some variations of the bags depending on where you are going and how many are in your party. After going over the survival bag, we went over cold injuries which is a major issue down here. There have already been a couple cases of hypothermia as you can imagine. An interesting side fact is that everyone down here has a slightly lower core temperature than you guys up there, in America/the real world. After a couple power-points in the class, we then gathered up all of our clothing and loaded everything into a delta so that we could head out to our camping spot/outdoor classroom.

The place where we are going to be doing the camping/outdoor portion of the class is near Willy Field. It is on the ice shelf, a little bit past the Kiwi base and the pressure ridges. It has a great view of Mt. Erebus. They refer to this place it as "snow city". The kiwi's have their own course as well, but it is roughly 2 miles or so away from the US area. We wouldn't want them stealing our super secret survival skills, would we? Or maybe it is the other way around, let that marinate for a second. The instructor brought us to the "I-Hut", which stands for information hut....ooohhh so exciting. That is the blue structure you see here, that the instructor sleeps in/hosts the class in. The instructor showed up how to use a whisperlight international stove, which is one of the most essential tools one could have on this harsh continent. I don't mean to brag or anything; but I've used one of these bad boys before. Shout out to Troop 1 Dover, Greggy Smalls and all the other Eagle Scouts I know!
What is really cool about the Whisperlight, is that they run on any kind of fuel, which makes them really useful down here. Literally any kind of fuel so, diesel, JP-8, mogas, kerosene, white gas and the list goes on. It is fairly easy to use the stove, thank god I used it all the time in scouting. After that portion of the class we got our sleeping gear issued at the warming hut, a small trailer that is fairly well heated and filled with sleeping supplies and other materials. The next portion of the class brought us to the actual camp ground, roughly a little less than 1/4 of a mile away from the I-Hut.
We were then issued shovels, saws, tents, sleds, fuel, stoves and of course a first aid kit. The best part about going with 4 other firefighters was that we basically ran the show. Our backgrounds made us the best candidates for this mock survival situation. We then were given instructions to set up a couple scott tents and a couple mountaineering tents. It was very easy to set up the tents, though I did learn a neat new trick about setting up anchors for the tents. The winds down here as you can imagine can get very strong. There was once an instance where a small group of people had their snow mobiles thrown from their campsite because of high winds, to give you a small picture of this wild continent we have here.
After throwing a couple of tents up, we then learned to make snow shelters. The most common snow shelters to make are the Quinzy and the snow trench. The snow trench is often nicknamed, "the snow grave", because it essentially is a hole dug like a gave and then you put a roof of snow bricks above it and seal yourself in for the night. A common variation of the snow trench is the exclamation point version, in which one makes another hole and a tunnel to join the snow trench to the hole. Look at the exclamation point key on your computer and that is what you make essentially, hence the name! With this attribute, one can completely seal the snow trench and still go in and out of the shelter without climbing through the roof. Though my favorite shelter is the "Quinzy". It is basically an igloo, if you want to call it that. The way to make that shelter is to take all your bags/luggage and bury them under a pile of snow. Let the snow sit for a couple hours then dig a hole through the side and pull the bags out. Then a little bit away from the shelter, make a hole and a tunnel. Tunnel into your dome from bellow and, seal the side hole and then you have your own private quinzy! The reason why you have a hole and a tunnel is because; if the entrance is lower than where you are sleeping, you're heat won't escape that easy...since heat rises. KNOWLEDGE!!!!
The quinzy that you see here was not built by me or my group. It was built by the last group. Our group was only 10 people, which is half the size of the normal class. With a class of 20, you have more hands to help build the shelter, so our class skipped that activity. Instead we did a couple other activities. We built a wall for the tents, to protect them from wind. Making snow blocks was wicked fun. And surprisingly easy, I can explain the process to anyone who wants later.


After we made our wall, our instructor showed us how to set up our kitchen. As you can see its not a bad set up. Our instructor left to sleep in his I-Hut, after the kitchen demo.

With the instructor away for the evening we were essentially on our own. The other guys from the fire dept. and I made a snow table for our feast of our dehydrated food. The Fire Department also cooked the food too. I told you we represented at the "Happy Camper". The food wasn't too bad, surprisingly. I don't know if that means I've lowered my standards or if McMurdo food is getting to me. But in either case, it was nice to have a good meal. Here is a shot of the view from our table. I believe it is one of the best seats I've ever had.

I decided to sleep in the Quinzy rather than in our small tent collection. I figure, how many people can say that they slept in a Quinzy on the Ross Ice Shelf? The space within the quinzy was small, but this works towards ones advantage. This is because that the body heat is basically trapped inside the structure and helps warm it. As you can see in this photo, I was sleeping essentially next to the celling. Don't worry this structure was very much solid and strong. The next day my buddy Ben and I jumped ontop of it several times...it didn't move at all. The Quinzy was an interesting experience, I won't say my sleep was restful, but I survived. Which is really what the course is all about, survival. I will admit that I usually do not like winter camping, but this was one of my best winter camping trips I had ever been on.

Day Two of the Survival course was not as exciting as Day One. But it was very interesting at some points. One of the low points was the "How to use a Radio" class. As someone who has used a portable radio for about 3 years, I think the class was a total waste of time and could have been shortened greatly. The next part of the radio class was on HV radios. Think of a radio from late 1960's to early 1970's. That is essentially the technology that we are working with. One must set up the antenna array in the general direction of who they want to contact. The goal of this exercise was to call the South Pole and ask them a question. It was fun to use this somewhat old technology and talk 800 miles away with somewhat crystal clear reception. Base camps and other groups use these radio's and statelite phones as the communication devices to contact MAC-Ops. MAC-Ops, "The Voice of Antarctica" is the dispatch center that is run at McMurdo. MAC-Ops runs all the US research facilities communications both within and outside the continent. They also help the other research facilities talk to each other. So understanding in how to use this radio is paramount. This photo, is me pretending to call in an air-strike to Scott Base...sorry my Kiwi friends but, you have fallen victim to my massive imagination. Sucka!

After the fun radio time. Our instructor had us do a "White Out Drill". This drill is wicked fun. The drill usually has one victim, but in this case we had two. The senario is that the victims were trapped within the I-hut and had to go to the bathroom. The first victim left, was gone for one hour, so the other victim went out to find him. The current weather conditions for the drill were typical of a "condition 1" storm. Firefighters traditionally rock in this drill, because we have the most training for searching area's with limited visibility. They had us wear white buckets over our heads. Usually most groups can't find the victims that efficiently or at all. But, we were able to find both victims fairly quickly. After that we cleaned up the I-hut and went back to the classroom at McMurdo to do another couple powerpoints/videos on some more Antarctic environment. All and all it was a wicked fun experience. If anyone needs me to make them a quinzy, I got the training now, hollah! Take care everyone.

And of course here are some random Photos: FF Skyler calling South Pole and asking them what they had for dinner last night. A Scott tent and a couple mountaineering tents.